
Finally I’ve been to see a proper dedicated herb garden in France! Although it was only a small part of the gardens in the grounds it was a joy to visit and so peaceful and tranquil. Le Prieuré St. Michel (Priory of St Michel) sits on a hillside in the Auge region of France in a place called Crouttes Vimoutiers, and contains a tapestry of buildings and gardens. Founded in 994 by a local lord who was somehow annexed to the Abbey of Jumieges, you can trace the development of the place through its buildings and escape in the lush fragrant gardens. The 13th century Chapel (chapelle) can be seen in the picture above. Other buildings include a 13th century Tithe Barn, an 18th century Prior’s house. The old cider press (Le Pressoir) building, now the tea room, is a classic example of a wooden building from the 15th century. It was built after the 100 years war when wood was used a lot in Normandy to replace the stone buildings destroyed during the war years, it still contains the original cider press inside, there’s also a lovely floral fresco on the wall painted by the then President Mitterand’s niece.

Other gardens in the grounds include a 2.5 metre Lily Pond that holds an assortment of Water Lillies (Nymphaea spp.), Pickeral Weed (Pontederia cordata), Golden Club (Orontium aquaticum) edged with Yellow Flag Irises (Iris pseudacorus) which was once thought to bring relief to an aching tooth if a slice of the freshly cut root was held to the aching part, and Gunnera (Gunnera tinctoria). Incidentally I’d never viewed Gunnera as being more than a giant ornamental for using near water and bog gardens, but I discovered on my trip that a black dye is obtained from its roots, and that the roots have a 9% tannin concentration. The leaf stalks are edible, and are used fresh in salads and also made into a liquor, and the whole plant has medicinally astringent properties.
There were a few sharp words as we approached the Prior’s house I was taking photos of the roses and the perennial plants in the borders when Simon kept shouting me to come over and see the cat nap, without looking I kept shouting back it was catnip or catnep not catnap, muttering ‘you live with a herbaholic and you don’t know the correct name…’ imagine the stupid look on my face when I walked over to where he stood and saw what he was pointing to in the border! Okay hubby dearest, I’ll let you have this one but just remember the heather story, she who laughs last laughs and sniggers often when she remembers that one :oÞ

Following the path past the sleeping cat and around the front of the Prior’s house and round to walk between the tea shop and the holiday cottages there is a wide path that leads down to the bottom of the garden, to the left is the Jardin Des Simples (medicinal herb garden), which I’ll come back to later. To the right lies the Rose Garden filled with roses by David Austin and Delbard Roses one of the top rose producers in France. The French seem to be as fond of their roses as they are their Geranium’s and they love the richly scented varieties, in the parks and gardens we visited throughout our stay I think I came across only two unscented roses, trés bon, English gardens, parks and tourist attractions please take note! I love roses but for me a rose just isn’t a rose if it hasn’t got scent as well as a beautiful form, I go for roses like the above time and time again, and all my roses have lovely fragrances which make wandering in the garden during the summer months a heavenly experience, I’m in a garden not looking at a picture book I want to smell the rose!
The Iris Garden is next and contains a selection of Bearded Iris, the flower that is iconised on many French coats of arms and is a typical symbol of medieval times the fleur-de-lys. There is a Wild Garden complete with pond surrounded by Dwarf Willows, Hemerocallis (the Day Lily with her wonderfully edible flowers) and an assortment of Petasites (heliotropes). The borders wander to the end of the garden and are filled with Lady’s Mantle (Alchemilla mollis) the perennial plant that grows in most English country gardens which is not to be confused with Ladie’s Mantle (Alchemilla xanthoclora) which is the form that has the medicinal properties, as does Alpine Ladie’s Mantle (Alchemilla alpina). Joining the clumps of Lady’s are the Siberian Irises (Iris Sibirica), which has insecticidal and expectorant properties and Yellow Loosestrife (Lysimachia vulgaris) which was once used medicinally for its astringent, demulcent and expectorant properties, the pretty yellow flowers can be used as a dye, so yet another perennial garden plant falls out of the ornamental catergory and into the realm of useful plants hurrah!

We then go back up the long path lined with hornbeam hedges and turn to the left into the Jardin Des Simples and what’s the first thing I see? A sign that says “Priere de ne pas toucher les plants. Cueillette interdite…” translated “Please don’t touch the plants. Gathering is forbidden!” rats, so no tweaking leaves and releasing the aromas, didn’t stop me from smelling things though, the sign said nothing about holding your nose a few cm’s away lol! All the French herb gardens that I’ve seen pictures of seem to be based on the monastic bed system and the medicinal garden at Le Prieuré St Michel is no exception, its laid out in a system of 4 lots of 4 rectangular beds, with grass paths inbetween and a border of scented herbs and roses around the outside and small square or rectangular ‘island’ beds to the back and right side of the garden.

I’ll be writing a larger article about the herb garden at Le Prieuré St. Michel for the Herb Society members only site that I’m currently working on, it will focus on some of the plants in the beds along with their French names and things the French used them for. The herb garden is based on the plan for the Abbey of St Gall drawn up circa 816-836 AD, although never built, the plans were thought to be the ideal layout for a Benedictine monastery and many abbey and monastery herb gardens were based on the design. A copy of the plan was found preserved in the library of the Abbey of St. Gallen in Switzerland. I must stress that the plan was for the whole enchillada buildings and gardens. The gardens included a kitchen garden, physic garden, cloister-garth (see the 2nd photo in the Disappointment At Mont St Michel post to see what a cloister-garth is if you don’t already know) and a cemetery orchard, in monastic times fruit trees were planted in cemeteries for symbolic purposes, one assumes it illustrates the life from death school of thinking, with a little research I’ll be able to find out the real reasoning, just need some time, if you already know, please do email me

The interesting thing is there was no information on the uses of the herbs historically to be had in French or English, most of the herbs were labelled and the labels contained the latin name, French name and the genus and information on whether the herb was a French native or not, it would have been nice for those not in the know to read what the French used the herbs for. The shop contained no herbs at all, planty of scented candles and calvados but nothing herbal which I found intriguing. It was a beautiful place to visit though and despite being a long trip from where we were staying it was well worth the journey, such a variety of herbs was a joy to see in a nature rich natural setting.
Le Prieuré was the first time I’d ever seen Roman Wormwood (Artemisia pontica) in the flesh, so to speak, prior to my visit I’d only read about it and seen pictures, it was nice to see herbs such as columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris) being used in a herb garden, not used medicinally anymore due to the toxic alkaloids it contains, although it is still used in homeopathic medicine for treating conditions of the nervous system. I’ve read that the flowers can be eaten and are rather sweet and were used to make tea, although if its safe to do so I don’t know. In the past the plant was used for its astringent, depurative, diaphoretic, diuretic and parasiticide properties, but was chiefly used for its antiscorbutic property. To read more about the herbs in the Le Prieuré St. Michel you’ll have to join the Herb Society if you’re not already a member :OÞ